this post was submitted on 20 Oct 2025
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My Torrid combat boots are falling apart, so I'm in the market for a new pair that are specifically platform boots that come in black.

Unfortunately, the pair from Solovair (pictured) that I've had my eye on for a while (their 8-eye derby platforms) is no longer being sold, and it was replaced with a visually worse alternative where the zippers face outward.

I've never owned Martens before, but knowing that Martens aren't what they used to be, how much do I have to lose by picking up a pair of Jadon III's instead? If anyone knows any alternatives in the same style that are also Goodyear Welt, that could also be an option.

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I was actually doing a tonne of research back in April on Martens vs Solovairs. Ultimately: go with Solovairs. I've had mine since April and have had 0 issues since finding the right ones and getting through the break-in period.

A few of my notes:

  • Go down 1/2 a size. I recall reading a Reddit thread where users said to go down a full size. I wear a 10, but a 9.5 was the right size for me. I did have to exchange mine, but it was free so Injust had to wait
  • There definitely is a break-in period. The shoes will be a bit uncomfortable, but shouldn't be unbearable. Once they're broken in - a week for me IIRC, they're a dream

As other lemmings have mentioned: Martens used to be good. But something happened, Martens switched to cheap labour & cheap materials, and a lot of the original workers left & started Solovair.

[–] belated_frog_pants@beehaw.org 19 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Docs suck now, solovair's are the old doc quality you want

[–] nokturne213@sopuli.xyz 4 points 1 day ago

I have a pair of solovairs that are about 15 years old. They need some fix up, but are still quite wearable. I am old, they do not offer my body the comfort it needs, so I mostly only wear them to shows and nazi kicking parties these days.

[–] thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org 25 points 1 day ago (2 children)

I'm 50

I have had multiple pairs of both but I only have Solovair that I can still use, one pair is probably 20 years old with well over a 1000 miles on them. The soles are going out and the leather is cracked but on a dry day they are still the most comfy pair of boots I have

Docs were great until they became a chinese knockoff. If you can find a pair that says Made in England on the sole, they will be quality

Wow, okay, Martens are officially out of the running. Thank you for sharing your experience!

[–] Zagam@piefed.social 12 points 1 day ago

Agree. Docs were the absolute shit till they started making them elsewhere. I haven't bought the Made in England version they have now, but Solovairs are made with the old Doc equipment and are (IMHO) better than ever cost/product.

[–] Noite_Etion@lemmy.world 3 points 1 day ago

Solovair was the company that used to make the old school Martens that everyone loved, but when they lost the contract with Martens they decided to make the same boots but under their own name.

So the solovairs are much better as they are basically the same as the old docs in build quality (some people think old docs are still better than new solovairs as the leather is thicker I think, but to find a pair of old Martens without much wear can be a bit pricey).

Also when buying new boots like these prepare to have to wear them in, took my solovairs about 6 months to become really comfortable. And if possible avoid zippers, if you want a boot that can come off easily go for a Chelsea style with elastic sides, they last a lot longer.

[–] Codilingus@sh.itjust.works 6 points 1 day ago

I have some Solovairs that are going strong for 6+ years now. I'm even using them to work at a ranch until I finally buy boots just for work.

Doc Martens moved to Vietnam for production and quality fell off a cliff. Solovair went and brought their old England production equipment to keep the style alive, exactly as they were, and keep up the quality.

[–] _stranger_@lemmy.world 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Martin's, but admittedly that's pure nostalgia. I have pairs from the 90's still in perfect shape.

[–] kalpol@lemmy.ca 1 points 1 day ago

I literally have every pair of Docs I ever bought, and I bought my past pair in 2003 when they moved production to China/India. One or two are barely hanging in there as lawn shoes, but they are hard-wearing.

[–] zod000@lemmy.dbzer0.com 6 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Not that it is particularly helpful, but I still have my docs that I bought 30 years ago. They literally survived my house burning down, I dug them out of the ashes. Everything I have heard is that new docs suck and Solovair are essentially what the old docs are, so I'd go with those.

[–] Sergio@piefed.social 2 points 20 hours ago (1 children)

They literally survived my house burning down, I dug them out of the ashes.

This is freakin awesome. (er, sorry for your house, I meant that the shoes survived...) You shold give them a name, like: "Ashenborn" or something. They definitely give you plus one on your saving throws.

[–] zod000@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 20 hours ago

A missed opportunity for sure, it feels a bit late to name them now. My Atari 2600 and games, as well as most of NES games survived as well (with a few of the NES games slightly melted, system itself was toast) were the only other things that survived the fire. Once cleaned almost all the games worked.

[–] Berttheduck@lemmy.ml 8 points 1 day ago

I had a pair of Docs which fell to bits on me after about a year of regular use. I've since got 2 pairs of boots and a pair of trainers from Solovair and, after wearing in, they are the most comfortable footwear I've ever owned. I've worn, mostly the boots, every day for work for about 2 years now with no problems at all. I've even managed to get them mostly waterproof with liberal applications of dubbin wax.

Check out the outlet store (like on the main website), you can pick up shoes with slight defects or end of lines for significant discounts over new.

[–] actionjbone@sh.itjust.works 8 points 1 day ago (4 children)

Here's the thing: quality Goodyear welted boots do not come with zippers. Zippers are a sign of cheap, crappy boots.

No zippered boots will be BIFL.

So, what do you do if you don't want to have to deal with laces?

Chelsea boots. https://thursdayboots.com/products/womens-duchess-black-chelsea-boot

I collect and restore shoes, and I can tell you all about construction + types of leather + what truly makes a boot last a lifetime. Feel free to ask me all your questions.

[–] prettybunnys@piefed.social 10 points 1 day ago (2 children)

Why is the stretchy bits of the Chelsea boot better than the zip?

I’d imagine the stretchy bits and the the zipper both require binding to the leather.

I'm not a fan of any stretchy fabric from a bifl perspective since it wears out. Depending on design it can be replaced if it needs to be.

The main problem with zippers is that they aren't really made to be load bearing the way they are when used as a boot closure. It's an automatic weak spot. It probably doesn't matter for a fashion boot, but the good designs I've seen don't just have a zipper to the top, they have some kind of additional support to prevent the zipper from being pulled apart.

OP, look up paratrooper boots (aka jump boots). I think they fit the look you want, and it seems like there's plenty of brands that make them with good materials.

[–] actionjbone@sh.itjust.works -1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

It's not that it's better by itself. It's that zippers don't exist on good boots.

Can't really tell you why.

[–] tomalley8342@lemmy.world 2 points 1 day ago

Nicks and Russel Mocs both have models with zippers and they are about as quality as they come.

[–] Mandarbmax@lemmy.world 7 points 1 day ago (1 children)

How on god's green earth does a side zipper interfere with Goodyear welting? I've got a pair of boots with side zips that were advertised to be as goodyear welted and they are in the shop for their first sole replacement right now and you've got me worried that I'm going to get a sad call from my cobbler.

[–] actionjbone@sh.itjust.works 1 points 1 day ago (1 children)

It doesn't interfere. High quality boots just don't use them.

What brand are your boots?

[–] Mandarbmax@lemmy.world 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

Samuel Hubbard. They seem to have stopped making anything high quality since I bought my (admittedly already scraping the bottom of the barrel as gyw things go) boots.

Edit: looked at their site. They at least still make stuff that looks gyw. Could be a fake welt though. Can't say for sure

[–] CidVicious@sh.itjust.works 6 points 1 day ago (1 children)

This is false. For example I have a pair of Carmina zippered boots that are definitely GYW.

[–] actionjbone@sh.itjust.works 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Link? I'd honestly like to see that.

[–] CidVicious@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)
[–] MystValkyrie@lemmy.blahaj.zone 5 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

Yeah, it's a shame how that specific style seems to be inextricably linked to zippers.

I actually have Thursday's Explorer boots and have been really impressed with the fit and quality after a year, considering the price point. It actually occurs to me that I could get another of those in black and get similar aesthetic to a platform combat boot without the zipper 🤔

I know generally that Goodyear Welts can usually be resoled and often have longer lifespans, but I'm less knowledgeable about the craft itself, so your Chelsea boot recommendation from Thursday as an alternative is intriguing. In what situations would you prioritize a good leather upper that doesn't have a resoleable welt, over a boot that has a Goodyear Welt with design flaws in the upper?

[–] Gerudo@lemmy.zip 2 points 1 day ago

I 2nd Thursday Boots. Arguably the cheapest Goodyear welts out there. I got a pair barely used 2nd hand, and so far they are great. Nice thick quality leather that should hold up for years.

[–] AmanitaCaesarea@slrpnk.net 4 points 1 day ago

I've recently purchased the 6 eye astronaut greasy from solovair and absolutely love them. I don't own a whole lot of boots, so my review isn't that grounded, but so far so good. Gets used around 3 times a week, not a lot of hiking since I have a desk job. No break in needed. I don't have the optional sole but they are still comfy. If u order the solovairs buy a half size down, a lot of the product reviews will also mention this. It's also convenient to buy their dubbin wax, if u go for the greasy; or standard leather care for the high shines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkhCcvfVHRs&t=627s for a more in depth review. The short answer is: Solovairs are better than Docs. Unless u can find some vintage Docs

[–] acockworkorange@mander.xyz 4 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Is it for work? Red Wing boots are great, durable and comfortable. Get the insoles while you're at it. Insoles are consumable.

If for aesthetics, I don't think Red Wing has quite what you're looking for.

[–] MystValkyrie@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) (1 children)

They wouldn't be work boots, but I love the Minnesota rep. Red Wing Claras are my favorite boots ever.

So aesthetics, mainly. This would mostly be for wearing to concerts, or otherwise just in my rotation of urban going-around boots.

[–] acockworkorange@mander.xyz 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

I'd say take a look at their catalogue. Maybe you find something that interests you. I know they do have some black leather boots, I don't recall if they have combat boots like you pictured.

[–] hypna@lemmy.world 6 points 1 day ago

https://www.redwingshoes.com/heritage/ I have a pair of the iron rangers that I'm moderately pleased with.

[–] Kimjongtooill@sh.itjust.works 4 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Resoleing them requires specialized equipment, or at least nontypical knowledge on how to do it. There is a woman out of Portland that does it. Boilerroom shoe repair. Last I checked, solovair didn't have the resole option available on their site. But it's been a while since I've checked.

Ended up switching to Chelsea's just because I'm hoping I dont have to jump through hoops to get them repaired.

[–] MystValkyrie@lemmy.blahaj.zone 1 points 1 day ago (2 children)

Is this just the Docs that are hard to resole, or also Solovair too?

[–] Kimjongtooill@sh.itjust.works 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

They both use the same tech, so both are relevant as far as I know. I only own Solovair though, so I'm not sure about Docs

[–] actionjbone@sh.itjust.works 4 points 1 day ago

The issue is the heat sealing of the sole to the welt.

Typical Goodyear wilted shoes have a removable sole that separate from the welt. However, modern Docs use heat to melt the sole and welt together, creating a permanent bond.

I would have to take a pair of solovair apart to be sure, but they kinda look like old Docs, which use a wellington welt, but it's mainly for show.

With docs the midsole and the sole are actually one piece of plastic, not two separate prices being held together with the welt and some glue. At the price point of the solovair I'm guessing they are the same . It's hard to find a boot that's worth being resoled for less than 400-500 bucks.

No boot with a zipper on it is a buy it for life boot, zippers just fail too often because the webbing they're made from isn't as strong as the leather it's attached too.

If you want something that's a similar style, but is actually buy it for life quality, I'd look at Danner's rainforest boots. They are almost double the price, but you can actually send them back to the maker to get them resoled and have the uppers repaired if damaged.

Also, they do have some pretty awesome sales a couple times a year.

[–] UnpledgedCatnapTipper@piefed.blahaj.zone 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

I have a very similar pair of docs. I've worn them generally 5x (or more) per week as their my work shoes. I've had them for almost 3 years, and it shows. They're still pretty comfortable, but most of my job is sitting.

Edit: I just searched the Jadon III, that's the exact pair I have.

[–] ScrambledEggs@lazysoci.al 2 points 1 day ago

Gripfast have always been my go to boots. I've had like two pairs in 15 years. You should check them out. And I agree with others on here that docs are low quality.

[–] RubberElectrons@lemmy.world 1 points 1 day ago

Check out newrock boots.