IMALlama

joined 2 years ago
[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 3 points 1 day ago (1 children)

Sounds like a fun trip!

and used my 15 year old REI Chrysalis solo tent for the first time in a while. It continues to hold up

A lot of our camping gear is seriously old. A Coleman fuel stove and lantern from the 70s, which still works although TBH propane is somewhat appealing.

Our tent is the same tent I used as a kid - a "3 person" dome from Eastern Mountain Sports, which was basically a smaller scale REI store. The tent must be pushing 30 and is still going pretty strong. It's held up really well to some pretty serious wind and rain on a few occasions too - much better than the newer tents of some of my friends. I low key dread having to eventually replace it.

Our kids are old enough to start camping with us soon, so it's about to see it's third generation.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 3 days ago

For ACM - like aluminium honeycomb?

ACM is more of a sandwich. Aluminum, plastic, aluminum.

I have a boring old klicky. It works very for me ๐Ÿคท

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 37 points 4 days ago

Great read, with some amusing asides.

Shots fired!

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago

We probably have the same model - the one with the big oval stand. Every once in a while I wish it was OLED and/or higher resolution, but it's not worth the expensive or all the modern "features" such as these.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 2 points 1 week ago (1 children)

You know this, but I'll say it anyway. Discharging = heat and an implementation with no fan will probably result in shorter component life. Granted, someon else could use a quieter fan or a heat sync big enough to not necessitate active cooling.

If you're feeling adventurous, up size those resistors with through hole variety and offset them from the PCB so they get a bit more airflow.

Let us know what you end up with!

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago (2 children)

I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you're going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.

If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 5 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (4 children)

$1,200 is Voron and RatRig territory. Vorons cap out at 350 mm^3^ for build volume and 500mm^3^ rat rigs are $1,550. I agree that plenty of folks are probably over buy on printers, but if you want this kind of build volume the price seems reasonable - especially for a printer that ships assembled. Personally, I went the Voron route and if I wanted a larger printer I would probably either just make my 350mm taller or go the RatRig route.

That said, high velocity on a large format printer isn't that useful for big prints IMO. You're probably going be running a bigger nozzle and laying down wide/tall extrusions, which means you're probably going to be limited by how fast your extruder can melt plastic. That's the case on my Voron with a Rapido HF with "only" a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8mm extrusion widths, and 0.3mm layer heights.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 3 points 1 week ago

Not OP, but wanted to chime in.

I get the sentiment Some Gen Xers did grow up with home computers. However, I suspect those people are outliers due to both the cost and general user friendlyness. In the late 90s it seemed like everyone had a home computer, even the normies. This let their kids grow up messing around

It almost seems like we're heading back in this direction, where normies have moved on to phones and tablets because they "just work". I don't think the average kid will grow up as immersed in computers as I did unless their parents are intentionally about making that introduction. I bought my kid a used Thinkpad for Christmas last year. Most of his peers have tablets or just stick to their smartphone.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 13 points 1 week ago

Agree, but also - what if they aren't declined and that's just the way they were all along?

I have a coworker who's a total idea factory, but struggles to communicate their ideas clearly. They've found LLMs grestly help writing their ideas in a way others can understand.

TBH, I am not that fond of the idea. After all, if a LLM can write what I do there's not really a need for me. But I also wonder if I'm gatekeeping a bit. Even if I have a hard time empathizing with the situation, I understand that we all have different strengths and weaknesses. Maybe they're just using a LLM to help fill in one of their weaknesses?

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 1 points 1 week ago

It's probably either a long exposures or a bunch of stacked exposures to get decently even lighting.

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 6 points 2 weeks ago

These units are somewhat silly IMO. It all comes down to volumetric flow. Big nozzle + thick extrusions + thick layers would probably mean needing to print slower than that speed due to the ability of a hot end to melt the filament.

/ someone who has been mm^3/s constrained for a while now

[โ€“] IMALlama@lemmy.world 11 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

For quite some time now, Marlin has been the firmware of choice for any kind of custom 3D printer, with only Klipper offering some serious competition in the open-source world

Confused Voron noises

It does seem like an interesting concept, but I wonder how much benefit it will have, both in tuning effort and final outcome.

71
Bath time (lemmy.world)
submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by IMALlama@lemmy.world to c/birding@lemmy.world
 

I've seen Robbins around our lawn sprinkler before... I'll have to keep my camera more handy in case they show up again

 

This is a vaguely arty shot I took with my A9ii when I was renting the 70-200 f/2.8.

200mm, f/3.2, ISO 100, 1/800

 

I have a cheap/quick/dirty deer and rabbit fence around our vegetable garden. The doors are simple PVC squares with deer netting that used to attach to the fence via hooks at the top. This design turned out to be very fiddly. The new design seems much easier to manage - simply drop the door section into its slot.

 

/old man

 

So close, and yet so far

91
Brr (lemmy.world)
 

I took this a few months ago through one of our windows. I have a small backlog of photos to get through and hope to do one a day, but some of them might show up on !photography@lemmy.world.

A9ii w/ Tamron 150-500 @ 374 mm, 1/250, f/5.6, ISO 200. Cropped some.

 

No idea what's going on / it's the first time its flowers have ever looked this way. I personally think it's kind of neat.

 

Title basically. I've found myself playing youth sports team photographer, which I don't mind doing but we're going to have two kids in little league this season and I'm not looking forward to culling two team's worth of games. I've gotten better at framing and catching fielding action over the past year, I get pictures of my own kids, and the rest of the parents on the team seem to appreciate the photos, so woo. But! I'm very interested in tips to make the process of culling shots a bit faster.

Each game I try to get a hero shot per kid batting (getting a hit, bonus points if the ball is in frame), along with some general fielding shots. I come home with a metric crap ton of photos since getting a hero shot basically means bursting any time our team is at bat for every pitch.

I try to make sure each kid has roughly equal representation in the final album, regardless of how many (or few) hits each kid actually got.

I've found that it's easiest to sort photos by kid and cull from there, but I'm doing this completely manually in photo mechanic. I've dabbled in AI tools, but I don't really know what's out there. It seems like sorting all the photos with the most prominent face in the frame, and using context of being mid burst if a face is lost, automatically would be a massive time savings. Does such software exist? I don't want to pull out every face in the frame, just the biggest/sharpest one. Is there a better option for youth sports? A better approach to apply in photo mechanic?

Any/all advice welcome!

 

Raspberries are escaping their raised bed after two years :( I really don't want them to spread beyond it. what to do? Bury a tarp under the mulch? Dig a trench around the bed? Roundup?

 

One more picture below.

Behold, rebar clamps to give my veggies a nice climbing structure.

They're 3 total parts and are held together heat sets and bolts.

 

I was walking my 4 year old to T-ball practice and noticed these buds. All I had was my phone, so....

I do try to bring my 'real' camera with me most of the time, but haven't been bringing it to their practices since I get game photos.

100
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by IMALlama@lemmy.world to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
 

The joys of parts with not friendly printing geometry. There's another cylindrical recess running at 90 degrees to the one that's visible in this photo.

Apologies for the very obvious layer lines. Harsh direct overhead lighting makes them a lot more obvious. The prints are much better in person, I promise.

Edit: Finished part showing the second cylindrical recess. They're both dimensionally important, which is why the parts weren't printed flat.

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