Some highlights:

• Output: Dimmable 12,850 Lux at 3.3' w/ Reflector
• Built in fan
• 2700-7500K CCT
• Full RGB Color Control
• AC, Optional Battery & USB-C Power
• CRI 96 | TLCI 94 | SSI 82, 70

The battery connector accepts either a 14.8 or 26 volt pack, so presumably you could wire up a belt mounted battery. Or, you know, buy the official battery.

Do progress updates, or even ideation posts, fit this community?

Motivations:

• I don't ton of free time, which means when I finally finish something I'm much more likely to share the end result and not get into the details that eventually got me there. IMO the details, especially the failures along the way, are a lot more interesting than just the result and provide more opportunity for teaching/learning
• Big projects can be daunting. Talking about the journey will help others be more willing to set off on their own journey

I recently installed LDO's version of the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door on my Voron 2.4 350.

My 2.4 is stock in terms of heating other than having the filter, ACM panels, and 2x bed fans.

Takeaways?

• If you want to make graphs, make sure you have comparable conditions. I was printing during both graphs and the prints had different aspect ratios (before was taller than wide, after was wider than tall). This probably explains why before appears to have heated faster
• The better sealing door, with thicker acrylic did help chamber temps, but only by 3 degrees C
• It takes a very long time to heat soak a 350mm^3 chamber, even with 4x bed fans
• I wish I had a graph before I swapped the ACM panels on, but I don't and the panels are gone :(

I will be lining my panels with radiant insulation in the next week or three and will report back what, if any, changes that makes.

Or not, but there was an attempt!

Just a cellphone photo that's not particularly well framed, but I liked the contrast between dark trees and the sky. Bonus points for some snow.

Bonus points if you post some here too. I'll work on doing better on that myself.

Is there such a thing? Some of our plants inevitably grow towards the window quite a bit when I forgot to water them. A very slowly rotating plant stand seems like an obvious solution, but I haven't found any good offerings.

I am in the process of buttoning up a Nitehawk conversion on my Voron. I also replaced my extruder thermistor with an OE replacement purchased from a reputable vendor.

Post setup, my heated bed is reading spot on (it's 18.3 C in my basement aka 65 F). I verified that my extruder is also at ambient temperature by wedging a Thermapen under its silicone sock and letting it acclimate for 10 minutes. The I'm not sure why the extruder would be reading high.

I bought a spare thermistor and wired it in. The result was identical.

Thoughts? Ideas? I'm pretty sure I have the Nitehawk and thermistor set up correctly.

[extruder] step_pin: nhk:gpio23 dir_pin: nhk:gpio24
enable_pin: !nhk:gpio25
heater_pin: nhk:gpio9
sensor_pin: nhk:gpio29
pullup_resistor: 2200
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G`

Klipper aborted the print with:

Heater extruder not heating at expected rate Transition to shutdown state: Heater extruder not heating at expected rate See the 'verify_heater' section in docs/Config_Reference.md

Before any of this started,I goobered my original Rapido, so I replaced it with a Rapido 2. It's been in the printer since April, but I haven't done a ton of printing with it. After the replacement, all was well for a while. At some point, Klipper started randomly tripping thermal runaway protection. The spikes were instantaneous, so I suspected a wire break. It wouldn't be my first and they're usually easy to find. I moved the tool head around trying to find it with no success. I pulled apart both cable chains (yay Voron) to look for the wire break and didn't find one. I flipped the printer updside down and connections at the MCU - everything was fine. I went through the hot end and inadvertently pulled the thermistor out of the m3 slug. Here's a stock photo:

Suspecting a potential wire break at the thermistor, I manipulated the wiring to no real effect. Inside the M3 bung was some dried white stuff, which I think was probably Boron Nitride Paste. I bought some more from Slice Engineering and reinstalled the thermistor.

Two things changed after this. First, the terminator seems to be reading lower than it did before. I say this because I have a ton more stringing than I did previously. Second, the temperature is no longer spiking but it is doing this high frequency oscillation thing now.

The oscillation only happens once the printer is moving quickly. If it's still, or moving slowly, things are fine.

Thoughts? I'm suspecting the thermistor, but would like to troubleshoot if possible vs just throwing parts at the printer.

Title basically. I've been "long term renting" a few camera bodies by purchasing used gear with the intention of selling what I didn't want to keep. I'm now at the point of thinning the heard. I'm partially writing this for myself, but am more than open to feedback :)

The cameras in the post photo are an OM-1 and an A7 III, but I'm really comparing the OM-1 against an A9 II. The A7 III is generally a solid camera, but its mechanical shutter is somewhat loud to use in places like museums with the kiddos and its electronic shutter catches tons of banding from modern lighting. Both the OM-1 and the A9 II solve that problem, although the A9 II does so a bit better (yay faster readout).

What do I take photos of?

Candid kids (playing, sports, etc), some pets, some bugs, some plants, some landscape. But mostly kids in various states of motion.

What lighting do I shoot in?

In other words, do I really need the ISO/DR performance? There are a few answers to this question. First, I shoot in a wide range of lighting:

Second, when I shoot in lower light I am able to decrease my shutter speed and/or use fast glass to keep ISO fairly low:

Third, I am wary of needing to push ISO in the future for faster motion + lower light, but this isn't currently a concern.

What kind of lenses am I using these days?

For shorter distances, fast(ish) primes. On the long end, telephoto zooms.

On e-mount, I have a pair of Sigma 35mm lenses: their f/1.4 and f/2.0. The 2.0 is much more compact and is on the camera most of the time. I also have Sony's 50mm 1.8, which I will likely upgrade if I keep the camera. Closing out my e-mount collection is Tamron's 150-500.

On M43, I have the 25mm 1.2 pro and 12-40mm. I don't yet have a long telephoto, but will buy one if I decide to stick with the OM-1.

OM-1 Pros

• Of the cameras in this comparison, the burst rate of the OM-1 is frankly nuts
• Feels more mechanical than it is. Turns on nearly immediately, even when sitting for a long time, and its controls are all very responsive
• New M43 glass is cheaper than FF glass, used M43 glass is very available
• M43 is a much more macro friendly mount, especially once you factor in 2x FF equivalency. For example, the 12-40 has 0.3x magnification, but when you factor in that the sensor is half the size of a FF sensor this is equivalent to 0.6x
• The promise of compact
• The promise of fast AF

OM-1 Cons

• Minor one first. Since the camera isn't very popular accessories are somewhat harder to find and/or have less verity available
• Even when in focus priority, it will happily take photos that are out of focus. This seems to be more of an issue for humans than say birds, but I happen to want to take photos of humans
• Human face/eye detect works fairly well as long as faces/eyes leave the frame when they're lost. If the face/eye stays in the frame, and the camera starts to lose focus, it will continue to indicate focus on the face/eye as it slowly goes soft
• FF lenses can be even more compact once you get into FF equivalency, especially when you get into shorter focal lengths. More on this later
• The depth of field preview thing bugs me. For those who haven't shot M43, their preview (eg waving the camera around to get framing) and focusing happens wide open. They only step down when you're taking photos. They do have a depth of field preview button you can use, but the workflow turns into: press button, camera steps down, focus, camera opens, take photo, camera steps down 'just in time'
• If you want GPS coordinates in your photos the companion app is very silly. The OM-1 can encode GPS coordinates as you take photos, but only if you launch the camera app and record your location as you're walking around. This requires you to take an action in the app. Leaving the app in this mode will drain your phone battery. Sony/Nikon/Fuji simply require the companion app to be running in the background on your phone
• This is a quibble, but in a series of photos the OM-1 will fiddle with exposure a lot more than any other camera I've used. It's easy enough to address in post, but it's somewhat distracting while culling two very similarly framed photos with slightly different expsorues

A9 II Pros

• Very easy to use autofocus. Set it to tracking flexible spot M or L, aim the camera at the thing you want, engage autofocus, forget about it
• If it loses a face eye, it tells you immediately and often before that face/eye is out of focus. I've taken very few out of focus photos with this camera
• Preview and focus are stepped down, although it will occasionally go wide open to acquire initial focus. Once focus has been achieved it will step back down
• Huge quantity of available glass to fit basically any need/use case
• Ability to push ISO
• Large ecosystem around the camera

A9 II Cons

• The HMI is laggy, the camera can take a long time to turn on if it has sat for a while
• Expensive glass
• Physical size/weight of of lens when you get into bigger focal lengths

One sentence each

A9 II = very easy to focus on taking photos (framing, depth of field, etc)

OM-1 = the promise of compact, very fast

On compactness

On the shorter side of the focal range: Once you factor in FF equivalency (2x better total light gathering thanks to surface area, 2 stop depth of field difference), my 25mm f1/2 turns into a 50mm 2.5. This means that I can put something like Sony's 50mm 2.5 G or Sigma's 50mm F2 DG DN on the A9 II and have very comparable image quality with a more compact lens.

On the telephoto end, my 150-500 spends a lot of time between 350 and 500. It's a sharp lens, it focuses quickly, renders nicely, and I really appreciate 500mm. But it's heavy at 1.7 kg and the zoom ring is pretty stiff. The closest M43 lens to it are the pair of 100-400s. They will admittedly gain me quite a bit of reach, but I don't need that reach right now. Physically, they're not much smaller than the 150-500, but they're 600 grams (the Olympus) and 750 grams (the Panasonic) lighter respectively. I do wonder how sharp the Panasonic 100-400 is and am somewhat wary of the Olympus 100-400 since in Sony land its Sigma counterpart has the reputation for somewhat slow AF.

Years ago, nearly a decade ago in fact, my wife enrolled in a pottery class at our local community college. We planted a shrub while she was enrolled, dug up some clay in the process, and her professor let her make something with it and fire it. To everyone's surprise, it went smoothly.

Enter kids, increasing work responsibilities, etc. A decade passes. Along the way we discovered our yard is 2-3" of top soil followed by nearly 100% gray clay. There's no marbeling, basically no sediment, nothing. Just slightly sandy/gritty gray clay.

I recently buried a gutter downspout and added a French drain in our yard, so I trenched my way through a ton of clay. I set some aside, since our oldest kid is now messaging with clay at our community center.

Here's the quick rundown of how I processed it:

1. Manually remove the topsoil layer
2. Toss clay into a 5 gallon bucket
3. Cover in water, let sit a day or so
4. Mix with a grout/thinset/cement mixing paddle attached to a drill to break up the chunks
5. Sive for coarse material, like roots. I used some burlap as a screen and poured between buckets
6. After you've screened the clay, remove the excess water. You can just let the bucket(s) sit and wait for evaporation to do its thing, you can wait a day or two for some water to separate and pour it off, you can use some fabric you don't care about much as a cheesecloth, etc
7. Once the clay is the appropriate consistency, make something!

I made was a ceramic fish following the instructions of our oldest, who had just made something similar at the community center. The one pictured was meant to be the ugly sacrificial test piece before the "nice" one got fired, but our youngest broke the nice one into pieces, so I guess the ugly one is the nice one now.

I left the fish under our porch for a few weeks to dry out. After that, I put them into our fire pit, lit a small fire to warm them up somewhat gradually, and then built the fire up over a half hour or so.

Burningaton:

Post burn:

Pros:

• Massive quantities of flowers for about 3 months
• Bees love the blooms
• The plant doesn't need any care to thrive
• We've transplanted a few of the seedlings. They're true to their parent in terms of color, but the parents seems like a double bloom and the children seem like single bloom
• If you want a hedge, this seems like a good option

Cons:

• Seeds! So many seeds. Each of its hundreds (thousands?) of flowers will produce 10+ seeds. They all don't germinate, but it's a numbers game. If you want to avoid pulling volunteers up you're best off pulling the seed pods off the plant before they open on their own

I pulled ~2 gallons of seed pods off a week prior to this picture. My wife dumped them in the compost, so no epic 5+ gallon photo 😭