hereiamagain

Conditions were occasionally sandy, and I had shoes with netting on top for breathability.

They're wool. I held them over the fire every night, just close enough to get them hot enough to kill bacteria. But you can't replace soap and water.

How do through hikers do it?!

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/46601463

Swing your legs out one side, stand on stones. The other side? Stand in water 😅

Usually you wouldn't camp so close to water, but this was such a cool spot I couldn't help it. Plus it was on a fairly busy trail, in good weather, so.. 🤷‍♂️

Swing your legs out one side, stand on stones. The other side? Stand in water 😅

Usually you wouldn't camp so close to water, but this was such a cool spot I couldn't help it. Plus it was on a fairly busy trail, in good weather, so.. 🤷‍♂️

This is a lightweight wool shirt, smartwool brand. I think it's 90 or 100 percent wool, I forgot to photograph the tag.

I use it as a base layer while camping, so looks aren't that important, but I don't want it to fall apart.

I got a couple of snags on my last trip, and I poked most of them back in without issue, these two were bigger and I tried stretching the fabric slightly to pull them in. I did it gently, but they both broke 🫠

Should I use a patch? Or sew a few loose stitches to hold things together? Or just leave it alone?

The underside of the shirt is bright orange, the hole is only the top layer, if that makes sense?

Thanks!

I loved this glass bed. After so much time trying to get anything to stick to the stock ender 3 bed, this glass bed has things sticking almost TOO well.

It was fine enough for PLA, but I've been playing with PETG lately and it sticks a little harder.

Well today I printed the entire bed flat for a little hiking table I'm experimenting with.. and this happened when I tried to get it off...

Suggestions for replacement? Should I go glass again? I don't have bltouch so I like how flat glass is, set it and forget it. But I've seen those magnetic plates that allow for super easy removal but just flexing the plate, but this bed is aluminum I think. Plus that seems similar to the stock ender 3 plate that I despise.

I made this test block to test the fit on some holes (my printer isn't calibrated), when I noticed the problem. The cone on the side was a sanity check for this problem.

I tried googling but couldn't come up with this same problem.

Edit: I did just figure out a way, I made them a union group, which applied the cuts immediately, and they stayed when exported. I’ve never had to do that before. Though admittedly that's probably the right way, I normally use fusion360. Something is definitely weird though. It should just work without doing that. And in fact it did a few days ago on a different project file.

The screen swap was easy peasy, the hardest part was getting the old screen out. Mine was already broken, and I wasn't keeping the front plastic, so I didn't have to worry about being too careful, except around the top edge where the mics and ambient light sensor are.

The case swap was a bear, took forever. I'm fairly handy, but the whole process took almost 4 hours. My buddy was doing his in tandem with me and he was over 5 hours, and that's with me lending a hand towards the end.

It looks great, in my opinion, and I'd do it again, I'd just start earlier in the day 😬

As far as the OLED goes, so far it looks good. The stock brightness slider isn't working, it must be a software thing? I have had zero time to look into it. I haven't even played a single game on it since doing the swap. I'll report back when I have time to give it a fair shake.