morbidcactus

joined 2 years ago
[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 7 points 5 days ago

I do this, I have a toaster oven that lives in my garage solely for shop use. Have some foil to act as a bit of a heat deflector, seems to work well enough.

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 2 points 6 days ago

I bought a Brother colour laser last year (which on the outside looks identical to the monochrome one I bought 17 years ago that lives with my parents), zero issues, which pretty much has been my experience with printers on linux (also tried a ~5 y/o & 25 y/o HP LaserJet, one being the cheapest thing I've ever used, other being old office equipment, think I tried the Epson ecotank and photo printer my mil has as well)

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 19 points 1 week ago

Bandcamp, I follow a bunch of labels that've done releases I like and have set up a bunch of genre tags, I'll go through every so often and go through releases, see what jumps out at me.

Otherwise, there's a few reviewers I've come to trust over the years, my partner likes angrymetalguy and both follow Rez Metal Podcast. Otherwise it's forums, Lemmy, reddit or other online community.

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 3 points 1 week ago

I wanna say it was something that showed up on my clipboard from KDE connect, may have been part of an error message or status message, should have kept it for preservation purposes

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 9 points 1 week ago

I have zero idea, apparently I managed to pocket comment somehow.

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Oh def give it a bit more time, you'll appreciate it. It's usually even easier to work with and gives enough time for some of the more complex flavours to develop (specifically from fermentation).

If you don't think it'll last long enough could do a preferment (like a biga) with upwards of half your flour and a fraction of the yeast (had decent results doing like 0.5g or less of yeast for 500g of flour), can add more yeast to your final dough if you want (I've done similar things to use sour dough discard because I hate wasting it, adds complexity without relying on it for leavening).

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 5 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Spool3D in Calgary sells sheets of FR4 (the flame resistant version of G10) that are bonded to spring steel sheets. I use with a few drops of the nano polymer adhesive they sell but would probably be fine without (A few drops in IPA seems to do the trick for ABS, lets me spread it extremely thin). I used Buildtak for a while and their surfaces are great, but this was a lot cheaper and extremely resistant, plus I like the surface finish it gives (Also I can source domestically, partly the reason I switched)

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 4 points 2 weeks ago

Two-spirit it's (to my knowledge) very much tied to indigenous culture, recognising people who fulfill a traditional third gender, you'll see 2S included a lot in Canada, official government stuff uses 2SLGBTQI+.

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 13 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (3 children)

Pretty much every person I know in Canada has an electric kettle and every single office I've worked in has one, my kitchen has 15a outlets which is still 1800W. I have a simple gooseneck kettle that I usw mainly for coffee, it's only 1kW and holds around 750ml, it's not blisteringly fast but it's boiled before I've ground my coffee.

The whole "120v is holding us back from having kettles" is way overblown (technology connections has a video on electric kettles).

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 1 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Same for me, 10mg is what usually do, I'll sometimes take another gummy but I tend to spread them out over the night, I've taken 40+ at once before just to try it,very much not for me, to each their own.

[–] morbidcactus@lemmy.ca 2 points 2 weeks ago

Colour based terms are super cultural too from what I've been told, stuff like red being bad and green being good isn't universal so imo it's not a bad idea to use more explicit terminology.

Beyond that, if you go into reporting and the like, red/green colour coding for indicators isn't accessible (colour blindness isn't uncommon, last job I had a few colleagues with red/green and one with blue/yellow, I was told that making them very distinct shades helps a lot), people also print stuff out on monochrome printers (there's old data viz wisdom that suggested designing for this) so I prefered symbols when I did more of that work, still suggest it when I get asked to review things.

 

Experts say that Hudson's Bay had been in decline long before then, some tracing its issues back to its 2008 acquisition by the American investment firm NRDC Equity Partners, and saying that the company's new ownership prioritized its real estate over a cohesive retail strategy.

Emphasis mine.

 

I was joking about a Trudeau/Brazeau charity match against Trump/Musk the other day.

 

Figured I'd contribute with resources I've used and found really solid, not everything is made in Canada but all are Canadian businesses with fantastic customer service.

Filament

  • Matter3D Langford BC based manufacturer, they make some solid quality filament and promote themselves as engineering grade material. Their abs has low odor, petg prints really well, haven't tried their nylon yet but I have a few spools to work with. Their prices are extremely reasonable and they have regular sales, my go to supplier

Parts, kits, etc.

  • Spool3D Calgary AB based store, Canada wide through canpost for free over $140. I live in Ontario, but most of my purchases are from them, solid selection of material, parts and accessories. My voron was sourced with parts 90% from here, they also have solid filament, sell garolite sheets too for a build surface (trying to move away from using builtak, they're a solid product but I won't be buying American for the foreseeable future)
  • 3d lab tech another in Calgary, the other 10% of my voron came from here. Lots of kits and high quality parts, highly recommend, extremely responsive too and they constantly have new, interesting stuff.
  • Sparta 3D Brampton Ontario based, again, lots of kits and high quality parts, have quality filter carbon as well if you're looking for a good Canadian supplier of acid-free material. They have filament as well, haven't had an opportunity to use it yet however.
  • Makerparts they're moving so unfortunately site looks to be closed for now, BC based, they're all sorts of maker related stuff, not just printing. I bought a bear mod kit for my prusa from them, again, solid product and great to work with.
 

Sounds like it's focused on internal trade and global investment, I know 30 days isn't a long time, but maybe we can be better prepared, reducing our reliance on the yanks certainly seems to have public support so there's that.

 

Because mandatory minimums work to deter crime and totally haven't been struck down in the past or anything right?

20mg - 15 years, 40mg is life and Pierre's mentioned using the notwithstanding clause to pass stuff like this in the past.

 

Paper mentioned in article can be found here.

Annealing prints has been something I've wanting to do more of, probably with proper temperature control as my experience has has more waste than I'd like, mainly warping.

Paper claims some pretty dramatic improvements to interlayer strength, they're running filament through a bath before entering the extruder, not sure how accessible the entire thing would be in a hobbyist environment (using chloroform and specialised microwave equipment). Makes me wonder however if carbon fibre filaments would be able to be processed similarly, how well it'd perform with stuff like abs or nylon and if you could achieve that with consumer microwaves.

 

Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?

Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.

I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!

If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.

Rough Sanded Front of keychain with image of a Bernese Mountain DogBack of keychain with some details obscured

 

Just as an FYI because it's saved me grief in the past, both klipper and octoprint can be setup to exclude certain objects while printing. You need to setup your slicer to provide gcode that enables the feature, but it allows you to stop printing a bad object, can reduce wastage in the case where only one part has failed but the others are ok.

Prusa/Superslicer are what I have experience using it with, I used a preprocessing script to output compatable gcode but apparently there's a label objects option directly in both slicers, the klipper link below goes over enabling that feature.

AFAIK Octoprint needs a Plugin
Klipper has native support

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