Thank you, I'll have a look after work!
morbidcactus
joined 2 years ago
That's actually amazing, can you choose the bots you're filling the raid/party slots with? I've got wicked nostalgia for wotlk and my partner was interested in wow when classic came out but they've had bad experiences with pug raids in other games (heck, even issues with guilds). Would you mind posting a link to some of the guides you used?
You get a bag of haribo golden bears with the kit, manual has callouts after completing a section to treat them as a reward for completing a milestone, intro page talking about it
Building my v2.4 was spread out across multiple days, I didn't rush anything. A lot of that time was spent making sure everything was square, tramming the gantry, cabling took a while. There's a lot of small fiddly stuff, bearings that you'll not want to damage, things you don't want to accidentally pinch so while you could probably bang out a kit pretty quick once you've had some experience, I'd still really want to take my time with it, put time and care into the assembly and it'll pay off with quality and reliability.
And to be fair to the total time I spent, I spent time trying to understand how things all worked together while assembling it, active assembly time was only a fraction of it.
If you're going the route of a stealthmax, the v2 version has a servo controlled vent, original version it's manual. All filaments give off material you don't want to breath, nevermore has good info on this in the micro repo. Personally, I'd always aim for enclosed no matter what, the most I have in my garage is a box fan w/ decent furnace filters taped to it (works for wildfire smoke), I'd be venting outside if I had to setup inside the house.
I only ever had filtered recirc and exhaust on my enclosures, I'd rather keep it slightly negative to ambient air to try keeping the atmosphere inside the printer.
While the tn issue is better, personally found I a lot better to not use external geometry at all and instead build my references wrt the base plane. At worst I have to change a sketch attachment, that and doing chamfers absolutely last has saved a ton of grief on some recent models. I hand sketch first, how I learned cad in the first place, that workflow seems to mesh well with it.
Still the odd crash here or there but I'm accepting of it.
Linux has that for vulkan shaders but like, you still get compiling shaders when loading in bl4 even after that.
I don't recall satisfactory having that issue and it's ue5 afaik, hits a solid fps too even with global illumination on.
For the price? Yeah absolutely. I got mine really discounted and it holds up, my partner has an oled which looks great and I like the larger screen, but not sure if $300 more is worth it for everyone. You can get a solid case & screen protector, battery bank and upgrade the ssd for nearly that.
It's nice to have just in case but seriously, I find my 350x350 way oversized for what I print on the regular. The best use I have for that size is printed panels, but the z height us mostly useless for 99% of what I do.
Total anecdote, I had similar washboarding with my mk3s, I did a bed levelling mod that replaced some of the standoffs with silicone tubing spacers and that helped a lot. It was always in the same spot and it would mostly show up on prints that covered large areas and toward the edges of the bed.
I do echo others though that I do think extrusion multiplier and first layer offset do play a role with it, petg doesn't like the same amount of squish that you can get away with using abs (not to say it doesn't happen, just doesn't look as rough, it doesn't cause a failed print for me and I don't mind a quick cleanup with a deburring tool depending what it's for).
Does it show up if you flip the sheet just as a thought? I recall having a bit more of an issue with one side of my satin sheet for example. Last thought, could be worth giving things a long heat soak before doing meshing and homing, make sure everything is more or less stable expansion wise.
The New Colossus has you covered there.
Quick question to the community, does anyone have some good tools to sculpt stls or step files?
Context, I'm working on some decorative keychains and have a vector image and text I want to add to the base object. I've used aolidworks for both in the past with alright results but I've switched over to freecad this year, haven't had a lot of luck adding in there, vector image is a tracing of a dog that I was provided, it's simplified but still has a lot of components.
I did look into blender but be honest I'm totally lost using it and have no clue what I'm doing coming from parametric modeling, I'm not an artist at all, my comfort zone is functional parts usually, but was approached by a friend. I did do some mockups in prusa/superslicer where I've added my image and text as negative volumes and merged into a single part. It works but it feels like a really hacky workaround (relevant XKCD) and would prefer to do it right. Any suggestions or resources would be appreciated!
If interested, here's the mockup that I've done a few test prints on, found I needed to change the line width of my vector a few times and made some features exaggerated so they'd come out more. I've (poorly) covered some identifying text on the back, left the rest as to get a feel for what I'm trying to do, did do some rough sanding on the below pictures. There's a pocket on the top edge that accepts a keyring, it's kinda chunky, about the size of a pog slammer or a thicker poker chip.
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CANDU also has a lot of different possible fuel cycles, from Wikipedia, these are some of the possible options
We also already have the ability to produce heavy water for them.