GreatBlueHeron

joined 2 years ago
[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 22 points 3 days ago (1 children)

In the current political climate, I can't understand how they got visas to enter the country and then, with appropriate visas, how/why ICE allowed them to cross the border. Of course I understand how it's possible, it just seems weirdly wrong.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 6 points 3 days ago

I get this one. Many years ago a former wife tried to convert me. I started going to chruch, bible studies etc. and after a while I realised that none of the people I was with actually believed anything - they were just going through the motions doing the stuff you need to do to stay in the club.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 4 points 4 days ago (1 children)

I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. I have god, not God. I know because I was typing on my phone and it autocorrected to God three times and I had to go back and fix it.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 30 points 4 days ago (19 children)

33% have a college degree yet only 3% are atheist. That's batshit crazy. I can't imagine having the critical thinking skills needed for a degree and not using those skills to figure out that god is a fairy tale.

Yes I know lots of educated people are religious - I had several christian professors when I was studying mathematics / computer science. That doesn't make it any less crazy to me.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 3 points 5 days ago

I have a STEM background myself and spent a good bit of my career writing (relatively poorly in my opinion) technical documentation. I understand what you're saying and I guess I didn't make my point very well.

I was hoping people would understand that I was referring to the enshitification of internet search results - where every search leads to pages of results of entire articles about very simple topics that say basically nothing. It seems obvious to be, though I admit I'm making an assumption, that the vast majority of these articles are LLM generated fluff attempting to lure people to pages to generate ad revenue.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 3 points 5 days ago

I get what you're saying, but I'll just clarify that my 16 paragraphs vs 16 words was about wordiness, not layout.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 5 points 5 days ago (1 children)

Denial information is available on the internet, so LLMs have ingested it. Couldn't the above output have easily been generated with a prompt like "what arguments do holocaust deniers use?"?

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 21 points 5 days ago (6 children)

For me the most obvious tell is using 16 paragraphs to say something that could have been said with 16 words.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 4 points 5 days ago (1 children)

I'm sure I've used some software that's auto corrected hyphens to em-dashes too, but I can't remember what.

 

I've got an IKEA Tradfri LED driver and a Rodret dimmer. When I first installed them I thought it would be good to also control some non-IKEA pendant lights with the same dimmer, in sync with the cabinet lights connected to the Tradfri - so, I created automations in Home Assistant corresponding to each of the actions the dimmer can perform and this is working fine. However, we've decided not to control the pendant lights in sync with the cabinet lights so it's now unnecessarily complicated. I plan to remove the automations and link the Rodret direct to the Tradfri again.

I understand that I can do this by following the IKEA procedure to pair the devices. But I'm also curious about the option in Home Assistant to bind devices.

Finally to my question - are these two methods to achieve the same result, or is IKEA pairing somehow different than Zigbee binding?

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 6 points 1 week ago (1 children)

I'm thinking that you used "akschuelly" to make this a joke? It hasn't really worked.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 1 points 2 weeks ago

It's pre terminated pure copper direct burial cat6 from Amazon. I don't have access to a real tester, but my cisco switch has some built in test capability and I'm not sure I fully understand the results, but it's assessment of the cable length is pretty close and, more importantly, it shows all the pairs are the same as each other. I think that if there was some damage to the cable, it's unlikely that it would affect all the pairs in exactly the same way. I have other weird grounding issues - like 20V between neutral and ground, even though it's a new house and they're properly bonded at the service entry. I had a really old transformer on the street feeding the two buildings and the power company recently replaced it - I was disappointed when this didn't resolve all my issues.

[–] GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca 1 points 3 weeks ago

I guess that's what I haven't figured out yet - it's about 200' and I don't have 200' of wire laying around. I'm thinking of making dummy terminations for each end of my cat6 cable and stripping each of the pairs and twisting them together so it works as a single conductor and using that to measure.

 

I'm a retired Unix admin. I've been using Linux since I installed Slackware 3.1 from several boxes of 1.44MB diskettes. But, working in a corporate environment with lots of M$ Office requirements meant that my work desktop has always been Windows. I know it sounds crazy, but I was really hesitant to switch to away from Windows - I guess after 30+ years I'd developed a bit of Stockholm syndrome. But, Copilot and the looming Recall were enough to push me over the edge.

Anyway - I spent a while making sure I got all my data off OneDrive etc. and then installed Debian 12 with LXDE - my laptop is an older i7 with 16GB of RAM, but lightweight and minimal really appeals to me. Everything just worked and I was happy for a day or two. Then I started noticing video tearing - especially on my 2nd monitor. I did a bit of research and found a suggestion to enable TearFree in the X11 configuration - X wouldn't even start when I did that. So, I did some more reading and now think I understand that the lightweight window managers don't have vsync and this causes the tearing. Apparently the real solution is to use a compositing window manager (I don't understand what that means..) with OpenGL. Oh well, I can't have minimal lightweight - so, I installed KDE. It's very clean and no video tearing. I still don't have it doing power management for my monitors the way I want, but other than that - I'm very happy. It was noticeably sluggish compared to LXDE, but I'm used to that already after only a day.

It's only been a few days, but I have not regretted the switch for one second.

 

I tried Nextcloud a while back and was not impressed - I had issues withe the speed of the Windows sync that were determined to be "normal" with no roadmap to getting fixed. I'm now planning to move off Windows desktop so that won't be an issue - so I thought I'd try again.

I went to nextcloud.com, clicked on Download-> Nextcloud server -> All-in-one -> Docker image - Setup AIO. This took me to the github README at Docker section. I'm already running docker for other things so I read the instructions, setup a new filesystem for my data directory and ran the suggested docker command with an appropriate "--env NEXTCLOUD_DATADIR=". I'm then left with a terminal running docker in the foreground - not a great way to run a background server but ok, I've been around for a while and can figure out how to make it autostart in the background ongoing. So I move on to the next step - open my browser at the appropriate URL and I'm presented with a simple page asking me to "Log in using your Nextcloud AIO passphrase:". I don't have a Nextcloud AIO passphrase and nothing I've read so far has mentioned it. When I search for it I get some results on how to reset it, but not much help. I could probably figure that out too, but after reading some more I found that Nextcloud requires a public hostname and can't work with a local name or IP address. I'm already running my home LAN with OpenVPN and access it from anywhere as "local" - I don't really want to create a new path into my home network just for Nextcloud.

I'm sorry - I know this sounds like a disgruntled rant and I guess it is. I just want to check that I'm not missing obvious things before I give up again. All I want is a simple file sync setup like onedrive but without the microsoft.

 

... or are notifications just really bad on Android?

For background, we've got an old, sick, dog and my wife often needs to get help from me urgently. I'm still running an old Pixel 4a - it worked really well for me until Google crippled the battery and even now it works well enough that I'm not tempted to upgrade.

My notifications always seem to be delayed - in batches. I have 3 buildings on my property and each has a Nest doorbell. Some days I can be walking around and I'll constantly hear ding, ding, ding as I walk past each doorbell. Other days I can walk around and hear nothing, and then I'll get 5-10 notifications all at once.

Today was a perfect example of why this is so frustrating - I'm sitting at my desk with my phone in front of me. It's plugged in an charging. My phone starts ringing and it's my wife upset that I have not responded to her messages. I go help her with the dog and come back to my phone and sure enough, 8 minutes ago there's a notification from Google Chat, 6 minutes ago there's a notification from Google Messages and 4 minutes ago there's the phone call. The Google Chat and Google Messages notifications never came through - until the phone call came in!

I've been through and made sure that all the battery optimisations are turned off for all the apps that I want instant notifications from - but that shouldn't have any impact here - my phone was plugged in.

Is this normal Android? (kinda rhetorical question - I've been running Android since my Nexus 4 and don't think this is normal but it feels like it's somehow the "new" normal)

I'm not running the stock Pixel launcher - does the launcher get involved in notification delivery at all?

 

I've just had a 2nd USB3 SATA enclosure go bad. I can't remember what the first one was. This one is an Orico MS400U3. It was plugged into a Linux box with one drive and the drive started reporting strange errors so I removed the drive and connected it direct to SATA and it's working fine - after fsck fixed the errors on it. I thought maybe the USB port on the Linux box might be bad so I plugged the Orico into a Windows PC with a known good 1TB drive in it (a different drive than originally gave errors) - Windows sees the drive as 115PB and won't let me format it.

Is there any explanation for this other than the controller board in the enclosure somehow failing?

I'm thinking of going for this StarTech one next. Any other suggestions?

1
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by GreatBlueHeron@lemmy.ca to c/electricians@lemmy.world
 

Some of you may recall my previous post about a ~20V potential between my electrical ground and my concrete slab. That's still not resolved - it's currently sitting just under 10V.

Today I have a new mystery - to me anyway..

I'm sitting at my desk and notice that I got a tingle from the outer shield/shell of a USB-C cable. I got my multi-meter and measured 65V from the cable to me with my bare feet on the slab! It drops to about 16V if I lift my feet off the floor. I immediately assumed the charging brick it's plugged into was faulty, but just in case I took a more measurements and found that the another similar charger has a similar offset, the "ground" part of a TRS cable plugged into an amplifier is similar, the accessible metal shield part of a USB-A port on an ASUS ChromeBox is similar. I assume that's not normal?

This is a new slab on grade build. Ground and neutral are properly bonded - I checked a few outlets and ground to neutral is ~0.3V.

Edit - I don't think there is any safety risk - I measured 0.3μA current.

 

I live in a small community at the end of a long line in Atlantic Canada. We get frequent power disruptions so I have installed a backup generator. I have a bit of a home lab, and don't like my server to lose power with no warning so I've recently installed a small UPS to keep it running in the gap between my power going out and the generator starting. The UPS logs data and lets me access it.

I'm wondering if I should be concerned about my input voltage. The blue line in the minimum for the hour, the amber is maximum for the hour. The zero period on the 8th of March was when I had the power turned off to do some work.

The default configuration for my UPS has it cut over to battery power at 88V, so it seems some significant variation is expected!

I tried searching my power company web site but they don't seem to publish anything about guaranteed, or even expected, supply voltage.

 

I hope avoiding Amazon fits this community rules?

I need a few bits to resurrect an old PC. My Amazon cart is $68 with shipping - we're going to cancel Prime, but my wife is still working on downloading all her photos. Best I can do elsewhere is near double this PLUS shipping from 3 different suppliers and 2 of the suppliers are on eBay, which is also a US company.

I moved to Canada a few years ago from Australia where I had pccasegear, scorptec and others. It seems Canadians have become reliant on the US market and Amazon and we now have no competitive local retailers for this type of thing?

 

I've just had a new house built in Atlantic Canada. This morning I noticed a bit of a tingle from my coffee machine when I touched it with wet hands. The machine has a grounded (3 pin) plug and I checked - it has 0V between the parts I touched (the entire metal outer case) and the ground socket in the outlet. So, I got curious and did some more measurements. It turns out there is 20V AC (and about 300mV DC) between the ground in my outlets and me when I'm standing on my floor (sealed concrete slab) with bare feet.

I assume this isn't good?

I'll be calling the electrician that wired the house in the morning, but I'd appreciate any insights you might have.

 

So pissed off with google. I've had google phones since my Nexus 4. I'm not a power user by any means and I'm now only on my 4th phone since then - a Pixel 4a. It's perfect for me - nice and small so it fits in my pocket, headphone jack etc. and all day battery! For my usage pattern I never had to think about battery even on such an old phone - I'd just charge it on my nightstand each night and never give it a thought.

Since the recent update - it's now 09:26 and I'm already down to 50%.

I know they say it's for my safety, but I simply don't believe them. I can't afford a new phone now, don't live anywhere where I can get the battery replaced reasonably and it's out of stock where I've looked for a DIY replacement. I'm stuck with this.

Update - typing the paragraph above took me down to 48%

 

I needed to connect two buildings and was having machines in to dig a 4' (1.2m) deep trench between them for a water line so I went to Amazon and bought a 250' (76m) pre-terminated copper Cat6 cable. As I was going to be burying it I wanted to be sure it worked, so I used it as a "fly lead" for my laptop for a week or two first and it worked fine. I know it initially connected at 1Gbps, but (stupidly) I can't be 100% certain it stayed at full speed the whole time.

Now that it's buried I'm only getting 100Mbit/s. It does sometimes connect at 1Gbit/s, but it later falls back to 100Mbit/s. I have an old Cisco SG300-10P on one end and a Ubiquiti Edge Router X on the other. I disabled 802.3 Energy Efficient Ethernet (EEE) on the Cisco and, as expected, it made no difference. The Cisco has built in cable test capability and it says I have an 84m open cable on all pairs - even when connected to the ER/X and working. Is there some sort of loopback/test termination I can make for the other end to get a better (more meaningful) result? I've tried searching, but failed.

The plug at one end did get pushed through some silicone caulk as it was being shoved through a hole in a wall. I cleaned it off with alcohol and it looks clean, but I'm considering cutting the plug off and replacing it with a socket as my next debugging step as it would be more convenient anyway.

I live about an hour from the nearest large town so there's no way I'm getting someone here with a proper tester at a reasonable price. If I can't figure it out myself I'll revert to the pair of airMax GigaBeam radios that have given me a solid 800Mbit/s for the last 3 years with only visual alignment!

Edit: this is the cable https://a.co/d/i6mYLy1

 

I'm using Firefox with uBlock Origin on both android and windows. I'm finding more and more sites that are very slow to load, or won't load at all. Yet when I open them in Chrome they work fine. I'm assuming the sites are just failing because of the privacy protection features of ff+ubo, and I'm happy enough to just avoid these shitty sites in general. But - I'm just checking to see - is this expected behaviour, might I have configuration issues?

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