bistdunarrisch

joined 1 year ago
[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

Thank you for your nice comment!

 

On our journey to shot the best images we can with our non ideal setup we collected more data on the heart nebula. Main problem with our setup is the distance of the sensor which is not perfect and results in bad star shapes in the corners. Stepping down to 2.8 and using BXT helps a lot. Combined with old data we gathered a total exposure time of 14 hours.

  • Samyang 135mm @f2.8 and f2.0
  • Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
  • STC dual narrowband filter
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • 856 x 60s
  • ISO 3200

Editing:

  • stacked, remove green noise, BGE in Siril
  • BXT, SXT in Pixinsight
  • streched with GHS in Siril
  • NXT, colouring, contrast, recombining stars in PS

Full resolution: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/211833/deep_sky/ic-1824/heart-and-soul-nebula/by-maxi_franzi

124
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world to c/pics@lemmy.world
 

Shoot with a Samyang 135mm lens and a Fuji X-T5.

 

This is a first test to shoot NGC 7293 with a 135mm lens. Sadly we could only gather 15 min exposure time as the time frame for shooting this nebula is super short and we had a lot of clouds. Hopefully we have better conditions next year. But this test makes us hopeful to get a decent image with our equipment.

  • Samyang 135mm
  • Fuji X-T5
  • dual narrowband filter
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • 29 * 30s
  • stacked in Siril
  • BXT, NXT, SXT
  • final editing in PS
[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 1 points 3 months ago (1 children)

Interesting, how much power does the laser have to need to be able to burn the paint?

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 2 points 4 months ago (1 children)

Haha, the board won‘t win any prices for sure. But for a first try I‘m still very happy.

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 3 points 4 months ago

I used this code as the base and changed it slightly so the pump has a safety time out and can be controlled via PWM.

In newer projects I use code from Espressif however because it works with Matter and Threads.

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 6 points 4 months ago

Yes exactly. It checks the weather forecast however so it doesn’t water when it‘s raining. This way I don’t have to refill the canister too often. A better way would be to attach moisture sensors to the plants, but I don’t like having to change batteries constantly. This is a very simple solution but it works for me.

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 7 points 4 months ago

I just printed the design on a glossy paper and used an iron to transfer the toner from the paper onto the pcb (last image). The toner protects the underlying copper in the etching process, so only the free copper gets etched away. I used Na2S2O8 for etching.

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 4 points 4 months ago

Yes UV is so much nicer, I also use this method now when I‘m not ordering online.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/21224914

As I don‘t have a water outlet on my balcony I use a water tank and a pump for watering my strawberries. I developed a controller for the pump which runs natively on Apple Homekit but I‘d like to change it to Matter and Threads in the future.

 

As I don‘t have a water outlet on my balcony I use a water tank and a pump for watering my strawberries. I developed a controller for the pump which runs natively on Apple Homekit but I‘d like to change it to Matter and Threads in the future.

 

This was my first try developing my own pcb with the toner transfer method. I did this project many years back but it works perfectly to this day.

It filters an audio signal and drives led strips so they pulsate to the beat of a song.

 

Got another shot at C/2023 A3.

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0
  • Fuji X-T5
  • 603 x 5s
  • ISO 400
  • Stacked, streched in Siril
  • combined stars, comet and foreground in Photoshop
1
C/2023 A3 & M5 (lemmy.world)
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world to c/astrophotography@lemmy.world
 

We got extremely lucky and got a tiny window of cloudless sky in an never ending sequence of cloudy nights. Also the conditions were a nightmare with severe light pollution and lights shining directly at our equipment.

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0
  • Fuji X-T5
  • 158 x 5s
  • ISO 125
  • @f2.8

And maybe somebody here can explain to us what the ionized gas is that 'shoots out‘ in front of the comet?

Also do the colours seem to be correct? We tried our best at background extraction and maintaining the true colour, but the raw data was of poor quality. From images of other comets the dust tails normally seems to have a yellow/orange colour and only the plasma tail is blue.

Edit: found the answer to the Anti-tail. It shows the trail of dust were the comet has traveled, which appears to come out at the opposing side because of earths angle relative to the comet and sun.

 

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0 lens
  • Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
  • Star Adventurer 2i

Images:

  • 220 x 60s
  • ISO 400

Processing:

  • stacked in Siril
  • remove green noise
  • background extraction
  • BlurXTerminator
  • NoiseXTerminator (0.5)
  • GHST
  • final editing and recomposition in Photoshop

More details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/202996/deep_sky/ngc-1456/pleiades/by-maxi_franzi

 

We really struggled to combine RGB with Ha. For our first try at continuum subtraction however we are very pleased.

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0 lens
  • Fuji X-T5 (unmodified)
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • STC duo narrowband filter

Images:

  • 288x 60s RGB
  • 592x 60s narrowband

Processing:

  • stacked in Siril
  • remove green noise
  • background extraction
  • star removal on both rgb and Ha
  • continuum subtraction with Pixelmath in Siril
  • adding Ha to RGB with Pixelmath
  • BlurXTerminator
  • NoiseXTerminator (0.5)
  • GHST
  • final editing and recomposition in Photoshop

Full resolution and more details: https://telescopius.com/pictures/view/202859/deep_sky/ngc-206/m31-andromeda/by-maxi_franzi

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 7 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) (2 children)

I use uYou plus. It has to be installed via Altstore (which means you have to resign it once a week with a computer needed in the same network).

But it has the best features:

  • Adblock
  • Sponsorblock (automatically skips sponsor segments in videos)
  • allows pip playback
  • shows estimated dislikes again
[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 10 points 5 months ago

Tl;DR The EU makes sure that third party developers gain access to connectivity features to develop devices like smartwatches, headphones or VR headsets that have a deep integration to the OS.

It is crucial that the request process is transparent, timely, and fair so that all developers have an effective and predictable path to interoperability and are enabled to innovate.

 

M31 shot only in Ha and OIII.

Equipment:

  • Samyang 135mm f2.0
  • Fuji X-T5 unmodified
  • Star Adventurer 2i
  • STC dual narrowband filter

Images:

  • 650x 60s
  • ISO 3200

Processing:

  • remove green noise
  • background extraction
  • photometric colour calibration
  • BluXTerminator
  • NoiseXTerminator (0.4)
  • star removal
  • GHST
  • saturation, blending and final adjustments in Photoshop
[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 7 points 5 months ago

Full resolution image and more details here

Also this is what our setup looks like to shoot such an image:

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 1 points 6 months ago (1 children)

I can recommend this online telescope simulator where you can simulate the field of view with your equipment. Your 300mm lens should be absolutely perfect

[–] bistdunarrisch@lemmy.world 2 points 6 months ago

This lens is incredibly sharp and produces nearly no coma. Also the image is super flat and the lens also works for full frame cameras. For its high image quality it‘s also used by some more advanced astrophotographers.

As I bought it new for 400€ this was a no brainer because we can also use it for 'normal' photography.

I‘m sure your lens works well for many nebulae!

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