techsupport

I suppose I'm posting this for my future self when I search for "Acer SB220Q remove stand" since it took me forever to figure this out.

Nothing was working to remove the original base. I didn't need to press/pry hard to get the stand to pop out. It should come out really easily with a light amount of pressure for anyone else that's struggling as much as I was.

So the story is, I've got a bunch of android-based smartwatches I'm using for some hobby projects. Got tired of typing stuff on a tiny 2" screen, so I've bought some rando bluetooth kbd/mice combo. Tried with the phone and it worked fine but I had a lot of trouble pairing them with the watches and even then it stutters a lot. Thought it was just watches being laggy until I noticed that they work much better if I move the watches away for me, or if I use the peripherals behind my back.

Obviously, having to do either is far from ideal. So the question is, am I going nuts, or is too much transmitting power a thing with BT devices? Is it just interference? Any tips on how I could reduce it?

I have a system that involves a rather large and complex oracle database, and while the system as a whole is easy enough (for me) to understand, the database feels more like a black box of mysterious powers that I need some assistance wrapping my head around.

Are there any analytical tools to help with this? Ideally, I'd like a tool that would connect to the database and make a diagram over which tables connect to which other tables, as well as naming any stored procedures relevant to each. If such a tool exists, that'd be grand, but any other tools that can help breaking down this rube goldberg machine into something more digestible would be great.

And yes, it is much overdue for a postgresql successor. Getting the current contraption mapped out is the first step in building its replacement.

EDIT: Oh, and this database also interacts a lot with orasched, as well as external processes. A lot of things that should have been a cron job is now a procedure stored in the scheduler. A lot of things that should have been an external script/program is a stored procedure. And most offensive of all: many things that should have been in a config file is part of an SQL table. Whoever built this contraption must've been paid to write SQL and nothing else.

I've managed to run a barebones virtual machine with Qemu to see how it works, but find myself a little lost with the finer details. Either what I look up seems outdated, or the documentation seems somewhere between out of my depth or lacking in clear examples of putting it all together.

If you have a standard system config command that may be a good reference, it'd be much appreciated!

I'm OOTL on both Win11 and Intel's discrete gfx, and I wasn't there to see the drop myself, so I just retell you what onlookers've seen at the moment it crashed hard. It boots ok right now, so I can do every possible check. I just lack experience with both this system and this brand of vcards. I'm 100% sure some Lemmimgs have expertise in that and maybe even encountered that.

Heyhey!

My fiance has been struggling with lack of space in his current email, plus his current provider (web.de) doesn't have the most professional name, which is bothering him because he's currently applying for jobs.

So I was looking to get him a nice clean email for Valentine's, that has a simple name and enough space for a while.

Problem is - I'm kinda dumb and have very little idea of how web hosting and email work (despite working as a Software Engineer...). So I could use some input on what steps I should be taking to get what I'm looking for while avoiding the pitfalls and hidden costs that some service providers have.

So far, I've found a nice {hisLastname}.cc domain on namecheap for 50€/10 years. Namecheap also offers a basic email service for 14€ per year, altough I'm not sure whether 5GB is enough space. The next higher email would be 40€ per year for 30GB of space. That seems more like what I'd be looking for, but also seems a bit expensive?

Does anyone have tips on where else I might want to look? How expensive would it be to just run my own email server? Getting a little homeserver rack has been a goal in our hosehold anyways, we just haven't had the time to look into what exactly to get.

What would I do once the domain (and maybe email service) is bought? Like, what does the migration from existing services look like? Would I have to set up specific software anywhere just to access the mails?

Edit: Thank you everyone, I got it figured out! I went ahead and bought the domain at Namecheap, but didn't buy their email service. I set the email up with a trial account on Purelymail instead, if that works without too many downtimes I'll be going ahead and getting their 10$/year plan - seems like the value on that is just too good :o

I've had this problem since I got the new computer and I can't find a fix to save my soul. All the stuff I read online didn't work, and most other options are for windows 10. I found one thing that says realtek drivers tie your audio jacks together by default and to turn that off, but there's no audio driver manager I can find to do so. What do I do, where do I go?

It's a Lenovo Legion with only one audio jack, and my headphones have the 4 ring 3.5mm jack.

Everything is working splendidly, until I start to record Midi or Audio. Then everything freezes. I tried other audio-engines etc but only ALSA works. I also adjusted the buffer size and thereby latency.

Does anybody know what settings might possibly fix this?

Gratful for any and all suggestions no matter how outlandish.

If I could do all my recording on Debian I could ditch the airgapped windows machine I currently use for recording and finally be 100% FOSS.

I need to add a boot delay to these systems. Successfully used bcdedit.exe /timeout 60 which is also showing in msconfig, but the system seems to be ignoring the setting; I never see the countdown and the system boots normally.

Thanks for any input.

As Youtube becomes filled with more and more shit, I'm increasingly interested in block/hide type features. Even for videos that aren't shit, I'm seeing the same ones appear constantly in the recommendations, even if I've already watched them.

Or in the 'videos' page of a channel, being able to zap-out-of-existence ones I know I don't want to or have already seen: basically the channel should appear completely blank eventually if I've had enough time to pick through it, giving me an at-a-glance gauge of whether there's new content in future visits.

Figured there'd likely be an extension that does this, but I'm not seeing one...

Using Firefox. I do have uBlock Origin, and my first thought was to use the block-element feature to accomplish this, but that's doing things like hiding all the thumbnails vs the content specific to the video I targeted with it.

Any tips?

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/17872195

I'm using a Fairphone running Android 13 and I just got two different popups offering me some sort of AI assistant through something called 'Appnomix'.

I definitely did not install this on my phone and searches in Apps and Settings bring up nothing. Does anyone know where it came from and how to get rid of it?

EDIT: I worked out what it was! In case anyone else has the same issue, it was from a keyboard app called Typewise.

So, yeah. Uninstall Typewise.

As stated in the title, MS teams keeps reverting the volume to 20 %. This is a glaring issue for me as my iems will blast me at 20%.

Unfortunately it is a worklaptop and windows is quite literally closed off, so no regedits to try and solve this. I made sure that in windows in sound that applications also cannot have exclusive control of my sound device, but it seems that this gets circumvented by just adjusting the system volume.

Anyone here that had the same issue and found a good workaround?

So I have a Samsung TV that uses Tizen OS, which unlike an Android TV, is very limited with customization. I've been trying to figure out how to get the TV into my vpn and I discovered the Mango Router by GL.inet. It's basically a small travel router that allows you to use openvpn or wireguard to set up VPN. I figured this might be a good workaround to get my TV and other devices that don't support the mullvad client into my VPN. And if you're wondering why I don't just set up vpn on my primary router, I work from home and my company's systems trigger alerts when they detect logins coming from known VPN IPs, so I don't want to just pass all my traffic at home through my vpn. I'm also afraid of flashing my router and bricking it lol.

My question is, does anyone know if this use-case will work? I'll essentially set up mullvad on the Mango router (the docs say mullvad is supported), connect the Mango to my primary router, then connect any device that doesn't support mullvad to the Mango router. I'm aware of the potential degradation of speeds, but if I only use it for my tv, the Mango's 10/100Mbps ethernet speed might be enough if I hardwire everything.

Edit: I just saw in the documentation that the Shadow, the next model up from the Mango, has a maximum of 50Mbps for wireguard, which is I believe good enough for 4k streaming.

Thanks!

I've been experiencing this for a while now and it doesn't seem to appear anywhere else on other forums, so I'll post here. Even if this is unsolvable, it's good to get the issue posted somewhere.

Certain internet apps stop working randomly. When one app stops working, they all stop working. None of them crash, but they lose their functionality. The Internet still works, as I can browse the web just fine when these apps are broken. The only way to fix this is a full device reboot.

The apps include but are not limited to:

• Discord
• Jerboa for Lemmy
• Dating apps (Tinder, Bumble, Hinge)
• Certain banking apps (you know it's broken when it fails to show biometric login)

My phone is a Moto G Stylus 5G 2022, with the November 1, 2024 security patch of Android 13.

EDIT: I found another way to at least temporarily fix the issue after it happened a record 6 times in one day. Disabling (and optionally re-enabling) the DuckDuckGo app tracking protection. This is incredibly strange because the issue affects Jerboa for Lemmy which has no ads and trackers.

I'm using Boost for Lemmy on Android and when others post spoiler tags, I still see the text that should be hidden until tapped. Being able to see through spoiler tags is keeping me from engaging as readily with spoiler-filled communities.

Is there any adjustments I can do to fix it or is it something that can only be done at app or instance or Lemmy as a whole level? TY.

Hi everyone, appreciate some assistance here. My CPU has hit 100 degrees celcius and shut down. This was happening when the CPU load was 1% with nothing running. I have ran a virus scan (both Defender and Malwarebytes) and nothing there. I have also changed the thermal paste, cleaned the fans and made sure the CPU cooler was secured properly.

This has happened randomly before, then all of a sudden it's running fine again and sits between 40c - 60c for months. It seems to be a completely random event then goes back to normal. It occurs maybe twice a year.

This is what I have:

Gigabyte B650 Gamxing X MSI GeForce RTX 3060 AMD Ryzen 7 7700X EK AIO 240 D-RGB be quiet! Pure Power 11 Gold Modular 750W Power Supply

Anything else I can look for? Appreciate it.

Update: I've ended up applying for warranty for the cooler. I have tried all that has been suggested. For now, I've bought a Noctua NH-U9S cpu fan. If that works, I'll probably just leave it in there.

Thanks again for helping a confused noob girl out. Love this community!

Update 2: I've taken out the AIO cooler and replaced with a fan (Noctua NH-U95). The temperatures are fine now. I was a little worried at first as the temperatures were better but high (70-80c under 10% load). Switched off the PC, now it's back on and it's staying around 43c. It's seems some fresh thermal pastes might take a while to settle in. Thanks again everyone. Never buying water-cooling again.

I saw a screenshot the other day of someone having tagged someone else with a note to help them recognize them later.

For example, if I wanted to tag GatoB@lemmy.world with a note of "Admits to sometimes secretly dressing up like Tarzan", so that I see it next to their name every time I read a comment/post.. how do I do this?

Bonus-question: Is this possible in my preferred app, Voyager?

Note: GatoB may or may not secretly dress up as Tarzan from time to time, I do not know. Not shaming either way.

Right now I have the modem/router in the attic, where most of the computers are, but i also have a computer in the basement, to get to that computer i have a powerline network adapter with two ethernet ports.

However, there is now a laptop that needs to be connected down there and doesn't have ethernet, wifi range down there is terrible, i'd like to plug something into the additional ethernet that just outputs the same wifi as upstairs (that way i don't even have to change wifi connections, and it connects automatically to the best one), what would be the best way to do that?

To be clear I know what multipoint is and it's not what I am looking for. I don't want to toggle between two audio sources. I want to combine several various audio sources into one set of headphones. I searched online for this and a lot of people were asking why someone would want to do this. It's so I can do things like play Elden Ring on my Steam Deck and listen to a podcast on my phone. Zoomer stuff.

One way I'm pretty sure I can do this is with Bluetooth audio receivers, a X in 1 out audio mixer, a USB hub and power source, and a Bluetooth audio transmitter.

I am not sure if using the same cheap audio receivers would cause issues or what kind of latency that would produce. Given how many people use Bluetooth headphones these days and the existence of Bluetooth DACs I thought something would exist (even if it was limited to a niche Tindie product). Ideally something that makes the pairing process easier than using screenless audio receivers and is a bit more portable.

I would appreciate any tips or suggestions to simplify this setup.

Where the "block" button would normally be now only has a notification telling me I've been banned. I don't want to see said community in my feed if I can't even comment there.

Has anyone ever had this issue with NVMe SSDs?

"A device which does not exist was specified."

Is this a hardware defect? The drive (PNY CS3140 1TB) is only about 5 weeks old. It seems to fix itself after a couple of reboots, but it's very annoying. Linux doesn't seem to have any issues with it yet.

Update: Solved by re-seating the drive in the slot: https://ma.fellr.net/users/fell/statuses/113883457441026891

@techsupport

#AskFedi #TechSupport #Windows #Windows10 #SSD #NVMe #Linux #Hardware

The lead up:

It was working a couple months ago. The headset was just sitting on a stand with the cable loosely looped back and forth in like usual so I'm hoping it's not a cable issue.

I decided to play around with it today and the Meta Quest software updated automatically and after that I was getting weird disconnect messages, a black screen, and static. Now I am getting no signs of life from the headset in terms of LEDs or other lights; only chimes that something is being connected and disconnected to my computer.

I previously had issues getting my Rift S headset to work likely due to some kind of power related issue on my old PC. A couple months ago it would work fine with no issues.

Most posts seem related to "Port Reset Failed" errors.

My troubleshooting steps so far have been:

• I swapped around the DisplayPort and USB connection (USB 3.2 and with a PCI-E USB expansion card) and reinserted the connector on the headset

• I went into Device Manager and uninstalled "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)" and "Rift USB Hub" before plugging the USB cord back in.

• I plugged the USB cord in and waited before plugging in the DisplayPort cable.

• I tried reinstalling the drivers using the oculus-driver.exe found in ./Oculus/Support/ and the Oculus software all together.

• Downgrading the drivers using instructions from the Oculus subreddit doesn't appear possible because it requires the Rift S to be recognized during the Oculus setup process.

• Straightening out the cable and feeling for any irregularities.

• Rebooting multiple times during all of this.

• Verified the ports on my computer are working.

• Disconnecting the headset end while the other side is connected to my computer

Steps that might help but I would like to avoid:

• Verifying the headset works using a different PC. As mentioned at the top my old PC had it's own set of issues with the Rift and I don't have friends to reach out to borrow a PC.

• Purchasing a new cable. They are proprietary and cost more than the headset by itself and aren't sold by Meta.

• Reaching out to Meta support. They seem to recommend the same steps of reseating the cable, reseating the headset, rebooting the PC, and uninstalling things in Device Manager. In a few posts they seem pretty dismissive and refer to the Rift S as old. There's a lot of unresolved posts on the Meta community forums.

• Reinstalling Windows. It sounds like this rarely works and it would be a hassle.

If it does come down to spending $100 on the cable I might just consider getting a new headset that doesn't have anything to do with Meta. If you can think of one that it isn't crazy expensive let me know. The Meta Quest 3 looks neat and decently priced but I am real tired of dealing with Meta and how they handled the Rift S.

I wanted to dual boot fedora with Windows 11 and decided to partition my C drive but it shows the size available to shrink as around 900mb even though I have more than 250gb of available space in my drive.

I have already dual booted once before on this machine before switching back to Windows only and I would like to get back into linux but I can't seem to solve this issue.

From my research, the problem is caused by some immovable files resulting in discontiguous space in the drive? I have tried various solutions available online like disabling page files, deleting restore points and using 3rd party software (but all of them required paid plans to defrag/shrink my drive), none of them helped (though I think disabling page files got my available shrink space from 500mb to 900mb, essentially the problem still persists). I have also tried the inbuilt defrag utility of windows but the problem persists.

One thing that I haven't tried is trying to shrink through GParted because I have to boot using a USB stick in order to use it so I'm concerned it might break my existing windows install or personal files. Can anyone confirm if it is risk free? Or any other solutions I can try?

I have been using Quad9 for my DNS, setup at the router level, for months without issue. Today, I woke up and the internet wasn't working, and as the one in the house who self-hosts a couple things on an old laptop and thus tinkers with the router, I was the one my roommates looked at in a panic.

I figured I'd just do a factory reset, and it worked! And then stopped working when I changed the DNS from my ISP's servers to Quad9's. I can't even ping their servers from my home network.

Could my home IP have been banned from Quad9 for some reason? I truly can't imagine why.

EDIT: Update if anyone cares, it works now. I assume it was a problem somewhere between my network and Quad9's servers, since I didn't change any configurations to make it work.

I wanted to automatically open youtube videos in tubular (a newpipe fork) on my tablet, so I tried enabling the links in the settings but none of them showed up in the menu and I simply got a message telling me "0 supported links" as shown below (the "add" button doesn't do anything). It isn't a bug with the app as it works fine on my phone and I tried it on other apps which showed the same issue (including ones installed from the play store instead of fdroid).

Things I tried:

• Rebooting my device
• Trying different permissions for the app
• Resetting my device's settings
• I didn't try reinstalling the app but, as I mentioned, I tried installing other apps which also had the same problem

For reference the tablet is a lenovo tab K11 on android 13, it was also issued to me by my school although I doubt that's what's causing the issue.
My phone is a pixel 7 pro running android 15 (grapheneOS)

Does anyone know what's causing the issue and how to fix it.